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Trike City USA
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Custom Installing the Scooter Trike Kit

If you are installing a trike conversion kit to a Linhai-Yamaha 260/300(VOG) click here for instructions.

In these instructions below we are installing a trike kit to a Honda Forza 300. The modications needed to mount the kit was a little more involved than most other scooters we have done.

Before you start installing the kit, read the entire instructions below at least one.

Our first step is to align and center the scooter and rear axle. We are using a motorcycle lift for our workspace. In photo 1 the front tire and rear tire have been centered and the rear axle has been centered. The the rear tire has been removed and the center stand is being used to support the scooter and engine. This is extremely important, as you MUST get the rear axle assembly to a true right angle (90 degrees) of the bikes center line. If it is not a true right angle you will have shimmy in the steering; we call this wattle. We will disguss wattle later on.

Photo 1

NOTE: the center of the sprocket on the axle assembly maybe off center up to 1/8". In most cases you can center the axle assembly. The sprocket that will be installed to the scooters rear output shaft (drive sprocket)can be lined up to the axle assemble later. In a case where you cannot center the rear axle assembly for one reason or another you may off center the assembly by up to 1 inch. Should the center line of the sprockets be impaired by the output shaft housing, you can make adjustments as shown in photo 7.

In photo 2 we have rough trimmed the swing arm of the kit to see what we want to keep. We make this decision based on how we will fabricate our attachment plates. Keeping in mind that we need to axle assembly lower than the scooters rear axle; the tires on the kit are smaller than the scooters rear tire was. The height difference should be at least 1/2 the difference of the scooters rear tire height to the kits tire height. It can be greater but not less; less will cause the steering to plow in a turn. We also need to determine the angle to mount the attaching plates so that the chain rides over and under the tube on the axle assemble carrier.

.Photo 2Photo 3

In photo 3 we have trimmed the axle assemble carrier to our desired starting point for this application. We will now design our mounting plates. They will be bolted to the scooter with at least two mounting points on each side.

Photo 4 show the right side mounting plate tac welded on. We first made cardboard templates, then cut them out of 3/16" flat stock steel; you may also use 1/4". We used the shock mounting bolt for the rear mounting points and one of the scooters rear brake mount holes for the right front mounting point (not drilled yet). For the left front mounting point we will weld an aluminium block onto the CVT housing as shown in Photo 2 where the black arrow is pointing just forward of the shock. This scooter had no other mounting points available so we needed to add one. See photo 5 below.Photo 5

 

In Photo 6 you will notice that the outpout shaft sprocket and spline plate have a number stamped into them. In this photo they are marked in red and are the number "1". When installing the spline plate and sprocket, the number must be facing in the same direction as shown. You must mate the holes so that the stamped numbers are next to each other. These holes are predrilled 1/2 degree off 90 degrees so the two pieces can only mate one way. This will in sure that the sprocket is centered to the spline plate.

The spline plate comes with a .960 hole in the center. If you would like us to machine the center to fit your spline sleeve you will need to ship your spline sleeve to us or tell us exactly the size of the center hole you want. See or ordering page for pricing.

In Photo 7 you will notice that we enlarged the center sprocket hole so that in fits around the outer edge of the output shaft housing. We also used low profile bolts. This allowed us to keep the center line of the rear axle on center. The output shaft sprocket and the rear axle assembly sprockets must be in line; so this cannot be done for you in advance, you will need to weld the spline plate to the spline sleeve.

As explained earlier, if you need to off center the rear axle assembly you may do so up to one inch, no more. The more the off center the more low speed wattle you will have.

Wattle is the effect of one rear tire pulling more than the other; causing the front wheel to pull left than right shaking the handle bar back and forth. If the rear axle assembly is not a true right angle to the center line of the bike, one tire will be in front of the oposite side, even a fraction of an inch, causing a wattle. Upon completion of the installation you will be able to adjust the rear axle assemble by about 3/16 of an inch to fine tune the right angle using the chain tension adjusters. It is also to be noted that a small amount of wattle is to be expected at low speed, even if the axle assemble is a prefect 90 degrees to the center line. The differential will put the torgue to one wheel, more the the other on take off. The tire with the most torgue will push the bike forward on that side causing a slight low speed wattle.

On this conversion the muffler was too close to the fender so we shimmed the fender brackets out as shown in Photo 8 below. In some cases we rebend the muffler exhaust pipe is make it fit.Photo 8

Here is the trike conversion completed